Shoe



May 30, 1939. E, INN T AL 2,160,625

SHOE

Fil ed. Feb. 7, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet l MIL [M7026 JAM/Es E. Gum/A4 HUGH F. ELL/O 1-7,-

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May 30, 1939. "J. E. QUINN tr AL File d Feb. 7, 193a 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented May 3061939 uni'rso v s'ra'res era eerie greases with Delaware Application February 1336, Serial bio. 6234i 3 i'iiaims. (i. 3M5) This invention relates to improvements in shoes... g y

An object 'of the invention is to provide ashoe having a continuous quarter without a back seam shaped to conform to the back line of the last over which it is made to form a smooth finish at the heel anda smooth heel seat, in combination with a quarter lining having a seam exten from the lower edge thereof and terminating below the upper edge to form aciirved portion that will fit snugly against the-inner surface of the counter, A

Another object or the invention is to provide a shoe having a continuous quarter with the back line molded to conform to a standard last over which the shoe is-made with a fitted quarter lin-=. ing having a substantially coincident upper edge with the upper edge of the quartenthereby providing a close fitting top line to the finished shoe having a snug jankie flt when worn.

. Additional advantages of the construction will a be apparent from the following detailed description of one embodiment thereof, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig, 1 is a view of the quarter blank.

Fig; 2 is an e e view of the same. Fig. 3, is a view of the quarter lining blank. Fig. 4 illustrates aportion of the mechanism employed for molding the back line of the quarter. 3 Fig.5isaview onthelineS-jofFigA,

Fig. 6 is a further illustration of the mechanism for moldingthe back line of the quarter in molding position.

Fig. 'l is a view similar to Fig. 5,. but with the position of Fig. 6. v V

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mechanism shown in the Fig. 8 shows a molded'quarter blank. Fig.--9-is an'edge viewof the quarter blank.. Fig. 10 is a view particularly illustrating the conformation of the molded section of the quarter blank, the bulge being indicatedto the right of the line 32-42:, showing the degree-of deformation of the original quarter blank.

Fig. 11 is a view of the quarter lining finished. Fig. 12 is an edge view thereof. Fig. 13 is a sectionview of the assembled parts of the shoe on the last.

Fig. 14 is an illustration the'finished shoe. a In constructing the shoe of the invention, the

quarter I of the shoe is blanked out of a con tinuous piece of material, thus avoiding the usual back seam and providing a shoe section that may be assembled with the shoe vamp in the usual manner. After the quarter blank has been of the rear portion of ding lows the line of curvature of the quarter.

formed it is molded,-the mechanism for this purpose being shown sumciently for clarity of de- 1 scnJptio'n in Figs. 4 to '7 inclusive of the drawings. The mechanism for the molding operation to impart the bulge or fullness in the blank consists of a machine familiar in the artrof' shoe 5 making anti is ordinarily referred to as a crimping machine. This machine, for the present use, consists of heatedstationaryjaws 2 spaced apart to providelan opening therebetween. Above the stationary jaws 2 is a reciprocating blade t hav in ing a ,convex lower edge. The quarter blankis stretched across the laws 2 and the blade 8 is moveddownwardly to the position illustrated in Figs. 6 and 7. The material of the'quarter blank is thus formed to provide a bulge or fullness it along the back line o the shoe by the impingement'of the material against the jaws Zby the blade 3. It will be understood that, in order to give permanence to the set of the blank-, it is preferred that theJawsW be heated, resulting in the 29 blank holding the bulged formation after ithas been removed from themachine. The finished quarter blank is shown in Figs. 8 to 10 inclusive of the drawings, from which it will appear that along the center line of the wheel portion of the quarter. blank there is a convex bulge, the extent of which is indicated particularly in Fig. llias lying to the right of the line M. The degree of curvature can be regulated by the form of the edge of the blade 8, so that the quarter blank will 30' v have a curveconforming' to the back line of a standardlast over which the shoe is madeland so that the shoe, when completed, will have a curva- 'ture at the back line that smoothly fits the outercurvature of the counter. I

. 85 "iho'quarter lining ii is blanked out, as'shownparticularly in Fig. 3, and has an upper iineof curvature which in blank form substantially fol- III order. to providel for the necessary conformation 40 .of the quarter lining to the curve of the em line of the shoe, the quarter lining ,is formed with a V-shaped cut-out 5, the base of which extends from the lcweredge of the blank to a point substantially intermediate. of theheightof 4.5

the blank, with the apex of the cut-out substan tially on the back line of the shoe. In finishing the quarter lining they-shaped cut-out is closed and seamed by the seam 6, producing the formation'of the quarter lining, as particularly shown in Figs. 11 and '12. After the preparation of the quarter sectionand the quarter lining element,

the parts are assembled in theusual manner over a last, it being understood that the lining is stitched to the'quarter and the parts then J u r stitched to the usual vamp of the shoe to form a closed shoe upper. The closed shoe upper is assembled on a last I in the usual mannerwith the counter 8 inserted between the lining and quarter, the lower edge of the quarter and lining being turnedin, as at 9, over the insole III to form a heel seat.

Since the correct conformation of the rear portion of the shoe to the back line of the last is provided for in the formation of the quarter and the lining, the assembled upper may be readily pulled over the last without stretching the parts, thus facilitating the operation of lasting and, at the same time, providing a smooth finish to the back portion of the shoe and a smooth, tight top line for the finished shoe, .as

well as providing a lower edge to the quarter and lining assembly, so that it may be turned in to form a smooth contour at the heel seat. What we claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: v

1. A slice construction including a continuous outer quarter having an exteriorly convex bulge along the center line of the heel portion comprising material displaced from the plane of the remainder of the outer quarter, a quarter lining having the contour of its upper edge substantially the same as the contour of the upper edge of the outer quarter, and means connecting said I) outer quarter and quarter lining along their upper edges, said quarter lining having a closed cut-out at its lower edge. said bulge and said closed cut-out providing a space between the outer quarter and the quarter lining to accommodate a counter.

2. A shoe construction including a continuous outer quarter having an outward bulge or,iullness along the center line of the heel portion v comprising material displaced from the plane of the remainder of the outer quarter, a quarter lining stitched to said outer quarter having substantially the same upper line contour as the upper line contour of the outer quarter, and provided with a seamed cut-out extending upwardly from its lower edge to well within the boundariesalong the center line of the heel portion comprising material displaced from the plane of .the

remainder of the outer quarter, a quarter lining having the contour of its'upper edge substantially the same as the contour of the upper edge of the outer quarter, and means connecting said I outer quarter and quarter lining along their upper edges, said quarter lining having a shortened 

